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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small place securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.